We woke at the Pumpkin Inn B&B to a crisp, but rapidly warming day in Port Elgin, New Brunswick, just under 30km from Cape Tormentine NB, and the bridge to Prince Edward Island. Last time I visited Prince Edward Island the bridge was barely an idea. Now it's an all-weather concrete meme.

Anxious to experience driving over the Confederation Bridge to PEI, we quickly reloaded the car and headed out to the rotary, the Canadian Maritime equivalent of the European 'roundabout', and the highway to the bridge. No charge going, only when leaving the Island ($37.50 per car in Canadian funds).

Driving across the Northumberland Straight on the Confederation Bridge from Cape Tormentine, New Brunswick to Prince Edward Island is so casual and utilitarian that the wonder of it is often missed. In a car, only occasionally do you get to peek over the concrete walls. I think I'd like to try crossing it during a stormy winter dawn from the perspective of a large truck. The uneventful drive eventually culminates in an official tourist mall with Island Crafts, Celtic dancing girls, Liquor Store, Govt Services, etc.

After the excitement of Moncton being 'full up' (See Dash to the Coast ), we were spooked, and decided to reserve a room for our first night in Prince Edward Island. On a recommendation we booked a room at the Royal Park Country Inn in Cornwall (just on the edge of Charlottetown). Our most expensive night of the trip was in an ok room, but being a 2nd floor room, we had to lug bags up and down the stairs, and then, since the room had no fridge, run up and down to the ice machine, carrying the dinky little platic containers they provide for ice, to keep our food coolers cool overnight. We'd seen lots of motels along the route we'd taken the day before, so we planned out our next day to include finding cheaper lodgings before lunch.

The whole island has the feel of a safe harbour.

The idyllic green rolling potato fields, backdropped by the ocean, have a darker side these days. 100,000 acres of potatoes on a tiny island has led to severe agricultural chemical runoff. "Since 1994 there have been 23 confirmed fish kills in 17 different island rivers caused by pesticide runoff from potato fields". (Jeff Wilson, Financial Post, Sept10/02)
But even the tenacious and ugly sounding potato wart can't erode my love of real french fries!

One of our first stops was to the Cheese Lady (Martina ter Beek) in Winsloe North to pick up some home made gouda. We bought a good selection of cheeses, herbed variety for gifts, and some extra old, real stinky, aggressively garlic cheese for us. Mmmmmm! Just fantastic!

In a sampling frenzy, we tasted just about every jam, jelly, and marmalade at the PEI Preserve Company (seen left). We had lot's of food fun in PEI. Of the many 'lobster supper' restaurants, we eventually chose two to visit. All seemed to have similar menus, but distinguished themselves by having different 'unlimited' menu selections, and one or more distinctly superior items. I was a quick fan of the New Glasgow Restaurant, with its freshly baked, hot and tasty, unlimited rolls. And the New London Restaurant (shown below) had the best clam chowder and the freshest Malpeque oysters.

Malpeque (seen left) was one of our special stops. I had listened to Ed's stories of growing up in Malpeque and promised that I'd try to find some remnants of his memories. (For more about Ed, scroll down in A Hunter's Diary) But the years quickly erase what the mind holds crystal clear and we had no luck on our search. We did, though, manage to bring back a six pack of the fondly remembered Seaman's Lime Rickey soda pop. Still sold in recycled and reused glass bottles, the soft drink maker has survived because of the strictly enforced ban on disposable bottles.

PEI is an island of artisans. The density and variety of crafts is amazing. Some of the more interesting, and expensive, we found in the Dunes Studio Gallery (even if some were imported from other provinces). I don't usually get excited in stores, but the quality of the art on display was impressive. Fortunately our budget prevailed, and our only purchase was a small birthday treat for one of our friends. When I did finally break down and buy, it was for a pottery piece for Marsha, a hanging Yellowfin Surgeon fish (seen below) from Pottery by the Sea, in North Rustico.
	Just before sunset, we cruised into the north shore national park near Cavendish to experience the world famous sand dune beaches. Overcoming the park's boardwalks and fearless red foxes, we reached a beach long and big enough to allow us to wander off from the crowds for a few moments alone with the ocean. Awesome!

We leave the beach as darkness fully settles in and drive towards the resort town of Cavendish, planning to continue back to our new economy motel near the Charlottetown airport. But glowing in the dark is a resort mall, built in wooden boardwalk style, surrounded by a busy gravel parking lot. Wow! More stores! And all the special ones. Cow's Ice Cream, deep fried Beaver Tail doughnuts (I had the Killaloe, lemon and brown sugar), and a whole slew of manufacturer outlets and souvenir stores.

to be continued...